Here at Drive4Life we understand that one of the main things that may be stopping you from learning to drive is the cost of insurance for people aged between 18 – 24 as it is anywhere around £5,000 per year. Although this shouldn’t let this put you off learning how to drive, because you could have your licence after you pass, even if you don’t actually drive for a couple of years. If you were to be the an extra driver on your parents car insurance then you would save a lot of money on your insurance and it would be more affordable although this does mean that the car isn’t officially classed as yours, but you would still have the choice to drive as and when. Now the second way is mostly waiting until you are 25 before you buy your first car, this is because you are then seen as a mature driver and not a “boy-racer”, obviously if you passed your test at 18 and waited until you were 25 before getting a car and insurance then your insurance costs would be a lot lower and they would be the same as what everyone else pays for theirs. At Drive4Life we recommend that you have some refresher lessons to check and enhance your skills.
Many young people are put off from learning how to drive, due to the costs of insurance and that they’d never be able to afford it, so they think what’s the point? Well if you knew how to drive you could apply for a job where driving is part of job description then your firm would then pay for your insurance for the vehicle you’d be using during company hours. This would show insurance companies that you respect other drivers on the roads and after a few years, when you come to buy your own insurance the costs would be considerably lower than when you looked after passing your test although you would have no “no claims” bonus.
If you would like some more information on our Driving Lessons, or you would just like to know some more information like this, then please don’t hesitate to contact us and a member of our friendly team will be in touch with you shortly.
ADVANTAGES OF MANUAL TRANSMISSION – A Discussion with Pete from Drive4Life
Here at Drive4Life I have been asked many times by many different learners, which car is easier and better to drive, an automatic or a manual? Today I will be discussing the advantages of a manual transmission over the automatic transmission. Although Automatics are easier in most situation, manuals are better for the long-run and are a lot cheaper.
How much will one cost?
Manual transmission cars are quite a bit cheaper than the automatic equivalent and are cheaper in the long-run too (due to automatics failing more often than manuals). An automatic transmission is more complicated than a manual transmission to develop and build and in the UK there are less of them manufactured, therefor automatics costs more to make and ultimately cost more to purchase to the consumer. Although if you were American, it’d be the other way around. If you walked into a dealership and asked for a manual they’d just give you a blank expression like they didn’t know what you were talking about.
I have an automatic driving licence, what’s my options?
If you are licensed to drive a manual car in the UK, you are also permitted to drive an automatic vehicle on public roads. If you are licensed for an automatic car, then you are not permitted to drive a manual on public roads. If you wanted to drive a manual, you will need to re-sit the UK driving test for manual transmission cars. This is because with Automatics you don’t need to know how the clutch works as there is no clutch. It does make it easier for slowing down and pulling off (as you only need to put it into Drive (D) and push the gas and you’ll move).
What if my car breaks down?
If you drive an automatic, but are licensed to drive manual and your car breaks down, your repair garage may provide you with a courtesy car. The garage is highly likely to provide you with a manual transmission courtesy car although an automatic would be unlikely as these aren’t seen as much in the UK as they are in the US.
An automatic transmission is much more complicated than a manual. As it is more complicated, a like for like model is more likely to malfunction with an automatic gearbox. Any problems with a manual transmission are likely to cost far less than its automatic counterpart. Although automatic transmissions are significantly more advanced than they once were, an automatic is likely to need servicing more frequently than manual.
Speed is important when choosing my car
If you like more control and speed out of your engine, manual transmission is the way to go. Many tend to find automatics boring to drive as the gear change is made for you. CVT transmissions are a modern form of automatic gearbox that allow for better fuel economy and speed if needed. Although due to no need in switching gears, automatics are considered safer as you can keep your hands on the wheel constantly, without having to move one to switch gears up and down.
Automatics and manuals in snow and ice
Manuals do offer a distinct advantage over automatics when driving in snow and ice. Engine brake is an important factor when driving on a slippery surface such as snow and ice. Using the foot brake as little as possible is essential in reducing the risk of a skid when slowing down or stopping. As manual transmission vehicles allow you full control over gears and speed by using clutch control, engine braking can be mastered, giving you maximum control in such dangerous conditions. For instance, if you are driving on icy roads, then a manual can be better as you can keep it in 2nd so you won’t be going too fast for the roads, although if you were in an automatic this wouldn’t be possible and you would need to make sure you keep at a certain speed for the ice.
If you found this article informative and you would like to see more articles like this one, then please keep checking our News page as new articles are posted quite often. Alternatively if you are looking for Driving Lessons in the Widnes, Runcorn & Chester areas then look no further, we at www.Drive-4-Life.net can give you the learning you require to get you onto the roads. If you would like to know more information on our lessons, or you would like a list of prices, then please don’t hesitate to get into contact with us today and a member of our friendly team will be in touch with you shortly.
The 5 Gears Explained with Drive4Life’s Pete – Cheshire’s #1 Driving Instructor
Today at Drive4Life we will be discussing what the 5 gears in your vehicle are actually for (although some vehicles can have more than 5 gears). Below are what the 5 gears are, from neutral through to 5th and how you would move up from the previous gear
Neutral isn’t really a gear, it’s when a gear hasn’t been selected and the gear stick is “wobbly” and is completely centre. Whenever you get into a car you should always check the handbrake is on and the vehicle is in neutral before starting the engine. Your examiner may ask you to park your vehicle, make sure you put the handbrake on, put the gear to neutral and then turn off indictors (if used).
1st gear is basically to get the car moving from a stand-still, although if you’re pulling off on a downhill road, you may be able to use 2nd. 1st gear is also often used with a combination of clutch control in slow moving traffic and manoeuvres during the driving test. 1st gear is found when you push the gear stick all the way to the left and then upwards.
2nd gear will allow you to move faster and to gain speed to get into 3rd. 2nd gear is used for turns in which you can’t see the full bend and you don’t know what the road is like. 2nd is more fuel friendly than 1st as you won’t burn as much fuel as quickly as you would in 1st. To move from first to second, you literally just need to pull the gear stick downwards.
3rd gear is the best gear when driving around housing estates and busy roads. As 3rd is best used when travelling at 20-30mph its good for most residential areas. To move into 3rd from 2nd, just gently nudge the gear stick so that it goes into neutral and then push it upwards. Neutral is literally sat under 3rd and above 4th so it’s always good to gently push the gear stick to neutral and then find where your next gear is from then on (remember odd numbers are at the top, whilst evens are at the bottom).
4th is another ideal gear for driving around towns, cities and busy areas in general really. If your car is happy to drive at 30mph in 4th gear, it will be a more economical choice than driving in 3rd would be, as it doesn’t put as much strain on the vehicle, thus reducing the amount of fuel burnt in the process. To get to 4th from 3rd, just pull the gear stick directly down.
Majority of cars will use 5th gear for when driving on faster roads (40mph+). 5th gear is to be used on open roads which have national speed limits (or are a 40-50 zone) or dual carriageways and motorways as these are meant to be driven at national speed limits (unless told otherwise by road signs, etc.). To get to 5th gear from 4th, put the gear stick to neutral, then push it to the right and then upwards, it should be in the furthest top right that it can move to.
If you found this article informative and helpful and you would like to see others like this in the future, then please don’t hesitate to contact us and a member of our friendly team will be in touch with you shortly. Or if you would like to see some of our other articles, like our MSPSL one then click here.
When to change gear – A quick discussion with Pete from Drive4Life
Today at Drive4Life we will be discussing when you should be moving up in gears whilst driving on the roads. You will need to master this art as you cannot stay in 1st forever as you’ll be an inconvenience to other drivers, you’ll burn more fuel and you’ll fail your test if you do it on the test day.
When to move up from 1st
Other than on the occasional downhill start, 1st gear is always the gear we use when moving forward from a stationary position. We also us 1st gear when moving along in traffic queues at very slow speeds (also known as crawling), which is usually combined with some clutch control. In normal driving, as you begin moving off in 1st gear, you will need to change into 2nd gear almost instantly. Remember when moving off from a stationary position, you will need to release the clutch slowly or else you may stall the car and that may stress you out or force you to panic (refer to our Recovering from a Stall article).
When to move up from 2nd
There is an easy way to know when to move up from 2nd gear up to 3rd, just check the speedometer and if you’re doing around 15-20mph, it’s time to switch it up a gear. Any below this and you’ll feel the vehicle begin to struggle to keep up with the gear change.
When to move up from 3rd to 4th
3rd gear is an intermediate often only used for increasing speed. Whilst accelerating in 3rd gear, when a speed of 30mph is reached change into 4th gear. Many cars that have been made recently are more suited to driving around in 3rd gear at 30mph, although if you do stay in 3rd you will burn off more fuel and your vehicle won’t be as eco-friendly.
When to move up from 4th to 5th
5th gear is suited to open roads and dual carriageways. Using these reference points on when to change gear is an ideal aid for learning to drive. It does however involve taking your attention away from the road and onto the speedometer to establish when to change gear. This is perfectly acceptable for a novice driver over the guidance of a driving instructor. Ultimately however it is of course safer to change gear without these reference points and listening to the engine will in fact provide you with all the information on when to change gear. If you’ve played a lot of racing games in the past, you will know what to look out for, but if you haven’t don’t worry! You will hear the car make a more aggressive noise from the engine, it will sound a lot stronger than it did maybe half a second ago? This is the time when you would change up in gear, you will then notice the engine’s noise will calm down again and it won’t seem as aggressive.
If you found this article informative and helpful and you would like to see others like this in the future, then please don’t hesitate to contact us and a member of our friendly team will be in touch with you shortly. Or if you would like to see some of our other articles, like our gears explained one then click here.
Recovering from a Stall – Advice from Drive4Life’s Pete
Today at Drive4Life we will be talking about recovering from a stall and how to react to one in a safe manner. If you happen to stall the vehicle during your driving test, whatever you do; DO NOT PANIC! The examiner will simply want to see how quickly and safely you get going again within as little time as possible, but in a safe manner that doesn’t endanger you, pedestrians or other road users. If you happen to stall while the car is in 1st, there is no need to put it back into neutral. Leave the car in first and make sure you keep the clutch depressed and put the handbrake on. Then re-start the car as you would when pulling off from parking and away you go. If the car stalls in any other gear, apply the handbrake and select neutral.
The Rev Counter and setting the gas
The photo represents the dials in front of the driver in a typical car. The dial on the left is the rev counter and the dial on the right is the speedometer. Set the gas (accelerator) so it reads around 1500 rpm on the rev counter. By giving your engine power in this way before bringing the clutch up will help to prevent stalling the car. Although if you’re pulling off from uphill or you were uphill initially, you will need the revs to be around 2000rpm or you will roll backwards.
Try these techniques in a quiet area so you will feel less stressed from other road users. The key is to taking it in stages until you build up confidence, then if you do stall, you won’t panic and get stressed.
If you found this article informative and helpful and you would like to see others like this in the future, then please don’t hesitate to contact us and a member of our friendly team will be in touch with you shortly. Or if you would like to see some of our other articles, like our understanding MSPSL then click here.
Tips on Finding the Clutches Biting Point – These helpful tips can help you pass your test, or increase your confidence when learning to drive
Today at Drive4Life we will be discussing a number of tips for when you’re trying to find the clutch biting point. Finding the bite is one of the most necessary steps in learning to drive and if you cannot find it, you’ll run into issues further down the line, luckily we’ve brought together a few quick tips to get you on your way.
Clutch Biting Point
What the clutch allows you to do is; it gives you a more precise control of the vehicle which you’re inhabiting, it is also almost mandatory if you’re making a vehicle start on an inclined plane. It is also required to initially pull the vehicle from it’s starting point, and can be further used when moving slowly along junctions and when you need to have the agility of making a quick turn or two.
Clutch Biting Point Meaning
What is the biting point? The clutch itself consists of two, small circle-shaped plates, each of them are connected to that of the wheels and the engine. As the drive of the vehicle places their foot on the pedal, and releases the pressure from the clutch pedal, the two aforementioned plates release from each other and it results in the engine and wheels contact being separated, this then allowed the driver to either slow the vehicle down to non-motion, or if they want to, they can also change gear through this method. Then, when the pressure on the pedal is lessened; the plates are forced back together, and this allowed the wheels and engine to retain their contact.
An occurring segment of the initial driving lesson gives you the information of what the clutch biting point is, and how to acquire the ability to consistently achieve it. It is usually found at the half-way point between the two separate clutches.
How to find the biting point
When you’re looking to initially find the biting point, for the first time, you want to make sure that the road isn’t crowded and consistently flat, finally you want to make sure that the handbrake is on. When you’ve done all of the previously mentioned requirements, release the clutch pedal, and you want to set the vehicle onto the first gear. This will then require you to apply some power to the engine, this is done by pressing the accelerator gently. The bite point will provide you with around 1500rmp on the counter which measures revs, you should always aim for around 1500rmp and slowly release the pressure you have on the clutch pedal.
As you’re hearing the engine when the bite point is engaged, the noise coming from the engine will be of a lower tone. This is encountered because the plates that are involved with the clutch are starting to connect with each other, and the engine is attempting to make the vehicle move in a forward motion.
The vehicle will be unable to become mobile whilst the handbrake is being applied, as soon as the change of noise from the engine occurs, this is the point were you should hold the clutch in it’s current position. If the car is making displeased noises, then apply a slight amount of pressure and you should find the biting point shortly.
When to use the biting point
A learner driver or any driver that has issues with stalling a car may find using the biting point beneficial for:
- moving the car off from a stationary parked position
- moving the car off from a waiting position that requires speed such as roundabouts and junctions
- moving the car off on a hill to prevent rolling back
- use for manoeuvres on the driving test
Biting point during the Driving Test
It makes no difference to the driving examiner if a learner driver uses the clutch biting point on the car or not. The examiner is simply there to assess that you can drive safely, have good regard for other road users and have good control of the car. It is often beneficial to use the biting point during driving test manoeuvres such as the turn in the road.
Clutch biting point explained
The above diagram shows the biting point of the clutch plates as the clutch pedal is raised to the point where both clutch plates begin to join and you start to feel movement in the vehicle (if the handbrake is off).
Biting Point on a Hill
All drivers need familiarisation with the clutch biting point if in hilly areas. A driving test will almost certainly involve moving off and stopping on a hill if the location of the test centre provides such a task.
Biting Point problems
Constantly using the bite point vastly increases wear on the clutch plates and can shorten the life of a clutch. Although it is important to learn the bite point and understand when to use it, long term it is beneficial to gain proficiency and confidence with the clutch so that the bite point is used only occasionally such as hill starts. The only point at which a clutch wears is just as the plates are coming together, which is exactly what the bite point is.
If you found this article informative and helpful and you would like to see others like this in the future, then please don’t hesitate to contact us and a member of our friendly team will be in touch with you shortly. Or if you would like to see some of our other articles, like our shifting gears one then click here.